It's far away from the constant buzz of motorbikes winding between minivans full of tourists or foreigners obsessed with the gods of the Internet. It's in a tranquil loop of a serpentine river, garnished with orchids, Bougainvillia and flaming red croton.
Like the better known Meccas of Borobudur and Angkor Wat, Besi Kalung is a serene site that has accepted the lushness of its surroundings. Mosses soften walkways; vines casually make their way up statues guarding the entrance of an outdoor room within the temple. Tall trees line the entry path and jungle protects two sides.
There are 14 temples in this complex, and 14 priests to serve them. Each day begins with fresh offerings, in appreciation of the local bounty in the nearby fields. The temple serves five villages, or about 800 people. The current head priest is a woman. She assumed leadership after her husband, the previous priest, died.
Visitors are asked to respect the traditions, and wear a sarong and sash. In anticipation of Western visitors, there is a supply of green floral sarongs and gold sashes in the gatehouse. A modest contribution for this service is expected.
Inside, the temple is guarded by a black dog. His tail wags when someone comes near, and he is careful to stay out of the intense tropical sun. He doesn't seek out daytime visitors. He allows the curious and friendly to Come to him.
The site is sometimes used by the Bali Wildlife Rescue Centre to return birds to the wild. Five pairs of Javanese Starlings were released here three years ago. Now there are 600 starlings in the area. This large population does not create conflict with the farmer: the birds feed off insects in the fields, and do not seek out seeds or tender young plants.
The Bali Wildlife Rescue Centre has also successfully released eagles at the Besi Kalung temple.
The next major celebration at the temple will be on January 25. Preparations have already begun.
The temple welcomes foreign visitors, interested in a quiet side trip during their visit to the World Heritage Site rice terraces at Tegallalang. The gatekeeper speaks excellent English, and is very hospitable.
PLEASE NOTE I've got wonderful pictures of the temple, and will post them once I have a strong internet connection.
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